Monday, October 18, 2010

Turning Your Pictures to Glass.


From UrbanDaddy newsletter.



Introducing Fracture, a new site that transforms your digital pictures into glass masterpieces, available online now.

Think of this as the digital equivalent of the ice sculpture. At one point in history, this type of thing—screening photos directly onto glass—was reserved for bishops and French monarchs and took years to create. But now, the entire process takes about four minutes.

So say you have a photo that’s crying out for the glass treatment—maybe a picture of you sprawled on a bearskin rug. In the Lincoln bedroom. You’ll go to the site. Upload a picture. Choose a frame size and shape. And in about 48 hours, that shot will be turned into a high-definition glass picture—as small as 5x7 or, if you want to supersize, as big as the custom 18x24 job.

Friday, July 23, 2010

How to take great group photos

Tip and tricks from Kodak:

Have everyone close their eyes until you say "open".
take the photo as you say it.

Monday, July 19, 2010

35 Eye Catching Bokeh Photography Examples


















Dorothy and the dream catcher by twisted3mind

See more here at Design Dazzling

Monday, June 28, 2010

Rules of Thumb - Cleaning your Glass

By Tim Thumb on 04-12-2010

They say you should learn something new every day. And if you're a photographer, learning new things about the tools and techniques of picture taking ultimately manifests itself in the form of better pictures. That goes for pros and amateurs alike. A trick here, a bit of common sense there, and before long your pictures start taking on quality characteristics they might not have had earlier on. And that's what 'Rules of Thumb' is all about.

The thing about rules is that sometimes they're so basic, so obvious, just saying them can cock an eyebrow or two. An example? How about "Is your lens clean?'. Now before you raise your eyebrow and click to the next post on this site, go get your camera and look at your lens. I'm pretty fastidious about keeping my lenses dust and smudge-free even I'm surprised at how often I discover a smudge or fingerprint on my lens. And if you own a camera that tucks the lens safely away behind those thin, look-at-me-too-hard-and-I'll-break 'protection' blades, I'll bet there's a smudge or hunk of lint lurking there as we speak.

And how would you know? The lens is always facing away from you. You turn the camera on, fuss with the menus, and compose and edit your pictures while staring at the back of the camera. Chances are the only times you look at the front of your camera is when you take it in and out of its pouch. And unless you take the time to actually look at the front lens element, you're clueless as to how spotless your lens may or may not be.

As for the ramifications of smudges and rogue lint, they vary. Dust, while far from catastrophic, is the tamer of the two, and in the real world a few specs of dust won't affect the quality of your imagery much at all. Unlike dust that settles on your imaging sensor and manifests itself in the form of shadowy, fuzzy-edged blobs on each and every picture you take, the visual effects of random dust particles on the front of your lens are all but nullified in the final image. If you have enough of it, you might lose sharpness, but a few specs won't cost you a Pulitzer Prize.

Smudges are another story. Smudges affect the sharpness of your imagery, and the larger smudge, the greater the damage. Depending on the viscosity of the smudge, e.g. , standard finger smudges versus cheese-fry smudges, smudges degrade the color saturation levels of your images too. If you've ever cleaned a dirty window you know how much more vibrant the outside landscape suddenly appears after a round or two of Windex and a soft, clean cloth.

If your camera has interchangeable lenses, always make sure you examine the rear element of your lens each time you put it on; and examine it again before recapping it and putting it away. Smudges on the rear element are worse than smudges on the front element because the rear element is the one that projects the image onto the camera's sensor (or film). Unlike the front lens element, the rear element is only visible when mounting or removing the lens from the camera body. And when you're juggling a body and 1 or 2 lenses simultaneously you're more likely to leave a smudge on the rear element and never even know.

You have several options for keeping your lens surfaces clean starting with lens tissue, which depending on the brand come in packs of 25, 50, or 100. Lens tissue should be used 1 at a time, and folded over several times to create a cushy, pad-like surface. Unlike facial tissue (which should never, ever be used on a lens surface), lens tissue is lint and fiber-free and won't leave particles behind. Before cleaning a lens you should always breathe lightly onto the lens surface, which makes the tissue more effective at removing smudges. The tiny drops of moisture also serve to protect the lens coatings from scratches. To clean your lens simply breathe on it and polish it gently in short circular motions.

A second option (and one I personally prefer) are lens cleaning cloths, which are typically made of cotton micro-fiber or chamois material. Like lens tissue, lens cloths are lint-free and leave nothing behind when you use them. Unlike lens tissue, which you dispose of after using them, cloths can be folded away and used repeatedly. They should also be cleaned regularly otherwise you end up spreading whatever goop you cleaned off your last lens onto the new one. Cleaning is easy, and consists of thoroughly rinsing the cloth under warm water and a bit of liquid dish detergent. Rinse the cloth until there's no trace of soap bubbles, hang it up to air-dry, and you're good to go.

Lens cloths are available in a variety of easily-pocketable sizes including a few that fold away into tiny stuff-bags that can be attached to your camera or bag strap, or simply tucked away in your pocket. Lens cloths and lens tissue are equally useful for cleaning eyeglass and sunglasses, which like your favorite lenses, should never ever be cleaned with facial tissue, regardless of what Uncle Ted says.

For those of you who were raised in households that discouraged breathing directly onto polished glass surfaces, there are a variety of spray solutions available that accomplish the same goal. These sprays should not be sprayed directly onto the lens surface, but rather onto to your cloth or folded lens tissue. We (B&H) also offer lens cleaning kits containing everything you need to keep your lenses - for lack of better words - picture perfect.

One rule about lens cleaning you should never break concerns canned, compressed air, which along with removing dust particles can also severely - and irreparably - damage lens coatings.

Sunday, June 27, 2010

How to Make Your Digicam See Wider & Tighter

By Tim Thumb on 06-14-2010

We're big fans of pocket cameras simply because, unlike bulkier DSLRs, they're more likely to be handy when you need them. With the exception of newer point-and-shoot digicams and bridge cameras with10x-, 15x-, and 20x-plus zoom lenses, most pocket cams come up short when it comes to satisfying wider angle and/or longer telephoto needs. If your digicam features a threaded lens mount or accessory ring, Zeikos offers a selection of optical extenders that enables you to capture wider fields of view—including fisheye—as well as longer telephoto shots.

Zeikos wide angle and teleconverters are designed to fit most point-and-shoot digicams with threaded lens flanges designed to accept accessory lenses. If you're otherwise satisfied with your current digicam, but occasionally wish you had the option of going optically wider or longer, Zeikos lens extenders can greatly expand your creativity levels without compelling you to purchase a whole new camera system.

Zeikos optical extenders are available in 37mm (0.40x Fisheye, 3.5x Telephoto, and 0.45x Wide-angle), 52mm (0.15x Super Fisheye, 0.18x Super Fisheye, 0.34x Fisheye, 0.40x Fisheye, and 4.5x Telephoto), and 58mm thread sizes (0.18x Super Fisheye, 0.34x Fisheye, 0.40x Fisheye, 2x Telephoto, 2.5x Telephoto, 3.5x Telephoto, and 4.5x Telephoto). If the thread size of your camera's lens is a size other than 39, 52 or 58mm you can use step-down rings to bridge the gap without affecting the optical performance of the lens converters.

To figure out the conversion factor, you must first determine the focal range equivalent of the lens on your camera, i.e., 35-105mm, 28-140mm, 25-250mm, etc. By multiplying the millimeter range of the lens by the "x" factor of the extender, you can determine the new focal-range equivalent.

As an example, if the lens on your camera is a 35-105 equivalent and you attach a 2x teleconverter, the lens effectively becomes a 70-210mm zoom lens. A 3.5x teleconverter turns the same lens into the equivalent of a 122-367.5mm zoom.

For those seeking wider perspectives, the same 35-105mm lens used with a Zeikos wide-angle adapter (0.45x) effectively becomes a noticeably wider 15.75-47.25mm equivalent zoom lens. And for those needing (or wanting) extreme wide-angle imagery, you can go full-tilt fisheye using the Zeikos 0.40x, 0.18x, and 0.15x fisheye converters, which take the wide end of your zoom range to the extreme limits.

So if you find yourself stymied by the focal range of your digicam, take a browse through our selection of Zeikos wide-angle and teleconverters. You just might find an easy add-on solution to your current camera's optical limitations.